Shrubs are the backbone of your garden, offering structure, height and habitat for wildlife, as well as colour and interest. Most shrubs are easy to look after, as long as you help them settle into your garden. Find out how in this guide.
Shrubs have a permanent structure of woody branches and stems. They may be deciduous (lose their leaves in winter) or evergreen (hold their leaves year round). You can buy shrubs in all sizes and to suit different environmental conditions. In this guide, I'll cover how to plant shrubs in the ground and in pots.
For more detailed information on planting and caring for specific shrubs, click on the "Read more" link next to the plant name in our Garden Plant Glossary. Shop our full range of garden shrubs.
When to plant shrubs
You can plant container-grown shrubs year round, but the best time is spring or autumn, when the soil is moist and not too cold. Bare root shrubs are only available from late autumn to early spring and need to be planted during this period. Find out more about when to plant shrubs in our dedicated guide.
What equipment do you need to plant a shrub?
You only need basic equipment and materials to plant shrubs in your garden. We recommend the following:
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A decent spade
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A gardening fork (if you need to loosen hard soil)
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A watering can
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A bucket of water (optional but advised)
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Compost and organic matter (optional, depending on the soil and type of shrub)
When planting shrubs in containers, then you don't even need a spade, just a trowel. If you don't own a spade or fork, you may be able to borrow one from a friend or neighbour.
Choosing shrubs for your garden
Before investing in shrubs for your garden, you want to make sure the plants you choose will grow well in your space. Sun, soil and wind are the three most important things to consider. The vast majority of the shrubs we sell are fully hardy in the UK, but some popular shrubs are only half hardy: these include coprosma, tender fuchsias and callistemon (bottlebrush).
Most shrubs will grow well in light or partial shade, but a sun-loving shrub will never grow well in deep shade, and shade-loving shrubs may scorch and suffer in full sun.
If your garden is very exposed, plant wind tolerant shrubs, such as escallonia, hebe and Berberis thunbergii, or plant a hedge to create a windbreak for your garden.
Soil type and pH are also important for certain plants. Acid-loving shrubs, such as blueberries, rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias, need acidic soil to grow well. If you don't have this in your garden, it's best to grow them in containers. Conversely, lilacs, buddleias and ceanothus grow best in alkaline soils.
You can filter the garden shrubs on our site by soil type and sun requirement to help you choose shrubs that will thrive in your garden.
How to plant shrubs: a step-by-step guide
Follow these steps when planting container-grown shrubs (both deciduous and evergreen varieties). If you have bare root shrubs, follow our guide to planting a bare root hedge.
Step 1: Soak the root ball
Let your shrub's roots soak up as much water as possible before planting. This helps soften the root system, so roots are less likely to snap when you plant the shrub. The best way to soak a shrub's root ball is to place the plant in its pot in a bucket of water. The water level should be partway up the pot. Leave it there for half an hour or so.
If you don't have a bucket, then just water the pot well, making sure you soak the compost until water drains from the bottom of the pot.
Step 2: Dig a planting hole
Now, it's time to dig a hole! Your hole needs to be about the depth of the root ball and at least twice as wide (aim for three times if possible). If your soil is hard or dense soil, loosen it with a garden fork to make it easier for the roots to penetrate.
You may also want to mix some organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, into the soil. This can help improve drainage in heavy soils and add fertility to poor soils. Check the specific requirements for the shrub you're planting before doing this.
Step 3: Loosen the roots
Remove the shrub from its growing pot. If you're struggling to pull the pot away from the root ball, try squeezing it gently as this helps loosen the soil. Before you place the root ball inside the hole, check the roots. If they're tightly wrapped up in a ball or circling round the root ball, gently ease them away from each other, being careful not to break any. Straightening the roots out encourages them to grow down into the soil rather than continuing to circle round.
You may also want to sprinkle some Rootgrow mycorrhizal fungi into the planting hole. This helps a plant access the nutrients it needs to grow healthy roots.
Step 4: Place the shrub in the hole
When you position your shrub, make sure the top part of the root zone is just below the soil surface. If you're planting a large shrub, place a cane or straight stick across the hole to help you get the level right.
No two shrubs are identical, and you may want to tweak the position of your plant for aesthetic reasons. Once you're happy it's showing off its best side, move on to the next step!
Step 5: Fill in the hole
You can now fill the space around your plants with all the soil you dug up. Gently firm the soil with your hands as you go to remove any air pockets. Once you've filled the hole, use your heel to firm the soil, being careful not to tread on the root ball itself.
Step 6: Water the soil
Give your new shrub a good drink, soaking the surrounding soil. Keep watering until small puddles begin to form. If puddles form quickly due to the soil being dry or heavy (water can struggle to percolate through clay soil), then wait a few minutes for the water to drain into the soil before watering again.
Step 7: Mulch around the shrub
Mulching really helps the soil retain moisture, as well as preventing weeds from growing and protecting your shrubs from frost. Use a thick layer of shredded bark mulch if possible, but any organic matter will do. This is especially important if you're planting shrubs in late spring or summer, when the weather is dry. Make sure your mulch doesn't touch the stems of the shrub.
Planting shrubs in containers
Many shrubs grow well in containers. You can use them to add year-round structure and interest to patio gardens, as statement plants (e.g., to frame an entrance) or to include plants in your garden that will struggle to grow in the ground.
While larger pots require less watering, they can also get waterlogged in winter, which can lead to root rot. For most shrubs, choose a container a little larger than the pot it came in and pot it up into larger containers as it grows. Make sure your container has drainage holes.
Part fill your pot with compost. A specific tree and shrub compost or a peat-free compost with John Innes No. 3 is a good choice for most shrubs, but for acid-loving plants, you should use ericaceous compost. You may want to mix some grit in with the compost for shrubs that prefer free-draining soil or some slow-release fertiliser for hungry plants.
Remove the shrub from its pot and loosen the roots if necessary. Place it in the container, making sure that the top of the root ball is just below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the plant with compost and gently firm around the shrub. Water it well and add a layer of mulch, such as bark chip or decorative gravel, to help prevent weeds and reduce water loss.
How to care for your shrubs in the early days
One of the advantages of growing shrubs is that they are pretty low maintenance, but you do need to put in a little effort early on if you want a resilient plant with a strong, healthy root system.
The most important job is watering. All new plants need regular watering during dry spells in their first growing season (around April to September). You want your shrub to grow deep roots so it can anchor itself in the ground and draw up water from the ground during droughts. To achieve this, it's important to water regularly and deeply, so the water drains all the way through the ground. This may mean emptying several watering cans of water around a shrub twice a week during the summer.
Shrubs in pots require more regular watering, as the compost dries out faster. They will also need feeding as they burn through the nutrients in the compost quite quickly. How often you need to feed shrubs depends on the plant type; for example, lavender prefers soil that is low in nutrients, whereas roses need regular feeding to keep them healthy and flowering.
Remove any weeds growing around newly planted shrubs to reduce competition for water and nutrients. Mulching also helps inhibit weeds.
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FAQ
How do you plant shrubs?
Soak the root ball of your garden shrub before planting to soften the roots. Dig a large hole, the depth of the root ball, but twice as wide. If the roots of your shrub are tightly bound, gently straighten them out before placing it in the hold. Backfill the soil around the shrub so the top of the root ball is at or just below the surface. Firm the soil and water. For more detail, read our complete guide above.
How much watering do newly planted shrubs require?
Shrubs need regular watering for at least the first year to help them develop strong roots. How often you need to water them will depend on when you plant them and the weather! Shrubs planted in autumn often don't need any supplementary watering for the first six months, as it rains often enough to keep the ground moist. However, they will need watering during dry periods in the spring and summer after planting.
How far apart should you plant shrubs?
When planting multiple shrubs, the spacing between them will depend on the size of the plant and the purpose of the shrubs. Check the eventual height and spread (width) of your shrub on its product page and space them far enough apart so each shrub has space to grow. If you're planting shrubs as a windbreak or hedge, then you will want to plant them closer together. Our complete guide to how to grow a hedge has information on how close to plant shrubs when growing a hedge.
How deep to plant shrubs?
When planting shrubs, position the plant so that the top of the root ball, where the roots begin to flare out from the stem, is at or just below the surface of the soil.
